Early unseen works by well-known artists.
Episode 5, Woody van Amen, Electric Chair, assemblage. 160 x 93 x 100 cm, Rijkscollectie
Past in the present 5, editor Leonor Faber-Jonker
Not one, but two items from an apartheid-era dining car: a spoon turned souvenir; a litter
bag turned wrapping paper.
Textile Publications 5: Ongarments
Editor Contrechoc
Publication trousers
What is the publishing difference between a dress shape and a
trouser shape? A dress form is much more “united surface. A
trouser shape is much more twice cylinder, with a connecting
upper cylinder. Pants were once invented to protect legs when
riding a horse. That was the time when the invention of horse
fighting was enough to conquer the world. From which it can be
learned that something interesting like pants can be developed
from something as negative as conquering the world.
The trouser legs were once loose leg protectors. When those leg
protectors are connected with a "crossing", the pants are created.
Pants and a dress both take gravity into account, which a book
doesn't. To keep the text legible, the direction of gravity is important. There is an above and below.
Unlike the “openness of a book the ongarment text is legible and
illegible. Not all surfaces can be surveyed at once. A text can run or
even disappear under a seam. Is this a problem? Well, if it is
assumed that one reads the text. Not if one thinks that “reading a
text” is some sort of ideal situation. But the question is whether a
text – even in a book or a newspaper – is ever really read. What is
“reading”? Reading presupposes understanding, in all the meaning
layers, the superficial layers as well as the deeper layers and the
layers that even the author doesn't realize, and also the layers that
arise from the reactions to the text and how the text develops.
relates in history. Really reading a text takes years and never ends.
Then, once the text has been read, more and more parts are
quickly forgotten. Given these two observations, it does not seem
to be a problem anymore that the text cannot be read in its
entirety on an ongarment publication.
So pants, trousers – not to conquer the world.
Besides the curves that hide the text – on these trousers there is
also a pattern that makes pentagonal holes everywhere. This
pattern is intended to accommodate climate change. This is an
incredibly cool pants. Coping with climate change cannot be done
with a book. But a book does have another advantage. The choice
of direction within the gravitational axis is rather important: is the
text readable for the wearer of the pants? Only if the text is upside
down for the rest of the world. So, the pants prove the
unbridgeable gap between the self and the rest, the book, on the
other hand, does not. The book is perhaps a more democratic
everyone’s friend, the publication pants are more loyal to you.
ONLINE -> ONGARMENTS
See the pants in action:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/contrechoc/51402923102/in/dateposted/
Contribution Woody van Amen: Ted Joans 125 WAYS TO SEX, 1964/ Woody van Amen Sex Bom, 1965
Editor Marina Toeters
51.438470688796706,
5.443782327506125
Fashion Tech Farm
Citations
21: Some of R&D projects of my garments are so
complex that they are totally beyond my level of
comprehension..
22: Our latest book on smart textiles is especially
designed to be readable even by a modestly intelligent knitting machine.
23: The circular knitting machine was happily
producing closed loop Fashion models on the fly.
24: We always care for a politically correct layout
of business in the Fashion Tech Farm. Therefore: the
low tech can be found on the roof, and the high end
in the cellar.
25: Shouldn't designers make the future itself
intelligent, instead of just the textiles?
Manifold of Labeledby – 3D print on stretch fabric.
E-textile drawings found in the Fashion Tech Farm
Mission Statement:
We believe, as designers, it’s our duty to inspire,
question the status quo, and bring history and future
to the present while sharing this with society.
Craftsmanship translated to the 3D printer, thus
exploring the 3D printer by pushing the boundaries.
Smocking by 3D printing on textiles. The tension in
the textile will reshape the surface into manifolds.
This technique is used for creating unexpected
esthetics for fashion.
Swatch Exchange Magic 5
Editor Contrechoc
Explorations of families of e-textile swatch concepts.
The magic of the illusion of efficient textile production.
Maybe?
Anyway:
What is efficient: something rectangular.
What is orderly: something rectangular.
What can we trust: something rectangular.
What can we oversee: something rectangular.
What can we make: something rectangular.
What can we produce: something rectangular.
Knitting and weaving can be done by hand.
Made by hand - but wait, the illusion is - nearly made by a machine.
The hand as a machine, so cleverly regular!
Improving your technique until your hand and you are more mechanical than a machine.
2013 Matrix - Maurin Donneaud & Laurent Malterre - knitting
2014 breadboard Irene Posch & Ebru Kurbak knitting
http://etextile-summercamp.org/swatch-exchange/knitted-breadboard-and-punchcard/
014 pattern keyboard - Claire Williams & Wendy Van Wynsberghe - knitting
http://etextile-summercamp.org/swatch-exchange/pattern-keyboard/
2014 pressure switch knit - Katharina Bredies, Pauline Vierne - knitting
http://etextile-summercamp.org/swatch-exchange/pressure-switch-knit/
2016 circuit knitting - Jesse Seay - knitting
http://etextile-summercamp.org/swatch-exchange/circuit-knitting/
2015 hand woven waffle Mika Satomi
http://etextile-summercamp.org/swatch-exchange/hand-woven-waffle-sensor/
2016 circuit knitting - Jesse Seay - knitting
http://etextile-summercamp.org/swatch-exchange/circuit-knitting/
2015 weaved matrix - Maurin Donneaud - woven
http://etextile-summercamp.org/swatch-exchange/weaved-matrix/
2020 mini matrix Emma wood - woven
Knittings, but 3D, irregular, triangular symmetry, circular symmetry, donuts, Klein Bottles (?), surface crossings
Compare this to the anti production: making all 25 e-textile
swatches different…
Beam Contrechoc:
http://etextile-summercamp.org/swatch-exchange/tiny-knittings/
Contribution by hannah perner-wilson